Pay special attention to...

Valentino Fall Winter 2015/2016

I've been summing up PFW in a nutshell but the Valentino show deserves our special attention. If I were Mr. Valentino (wich, let's face it, would be weird) I would be doing the "victory dance" every five minutes because landing the designer duo Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli is something to be very happy about. Yes, they have a signature style that is very solid but also very similar collection after collection, and that sometimes is not very positive. Well, this collection represents a turnaround, a new beguinning that solidifies the talent of the designers and the future of the Valentino brand.

Before we talk about the Aahhmazing clothes we have to point out the surprise appearence of the Zoolander characters that just made this show epic in every way.

Now the clothes... This is RTW but the sense of preciousness normally associated with couture is there but this does not mean that these clothes are meant to be kept in some closet, protected in bags or abandoned in archives, they are meant to be worn, they deserve it and we all deserve to be able to see them and touch them.

The designers were inspired by the work of Gustav Klimt, a painter that loves the female figure and romance, just like the italian designers. The novelty in this collection was the introduction of more casual looks, simple looks and plain fabrics that contrast with some of the more intricate pieces without loosing the thread. These looks prove that a romantic aesthetic can also be strong and that the Valentino woman has fifty shades of beauty.

The stars of the show...

PFW in a nutshell... #2

Chanel

Well Chanel is Chanel. They know how to put up a show and how to make sure they end up on every social network website but almost every time the clothes are not the center of atention, at least not for me.
You end up focusing yout attention on the set, the theme of the show, the Kendalls and Caras walking the runway, the front row and the mystical figure that is Karl Lagerfeld. You could argue that Alexander McQueen did the same thing, he would put on a show that would almost overshadow the collection but the truth is that this was never the case. You would always end up talking about the styling of the models, the fabrics and the construction of the clothes. In my opinion the "formula" has to be rethinked, it's getting old...

Christian Dior

The french "power-house" is in full power. the fashion world is in awe of the thigh-high vinyl boots that made their first appearance in the couture collection. Raf Simons explored the animal print and dissected it until it became so abstract that I almost missed it. This "Simmons / Dior Era" breeds excitement and a sense of freshness that has atracted my attention.

Givenchy

This is a dark, romantic, melancholic collection, or at least thats how I feel abou it. The blacks, the heavy feeling that velvet brings to the table and the beautiful, exotic, amazing face adornments.

Isabel Marant

I could talk about the ethnic prints, the high high waisted pants, the chiffon dresses paired with black heavy leather belts and boots or I could just say that Isabel Marants never disappoints the fashionistas of this world and always makes us wonder if we should spend our entire wage in a pair of boots.

Kenzo

Kenzo giving street cred to all the fashion lovers out there. Their clothes really fit that urban lifestyle and they continue to bet on the sportsware trend mixed with oriental inpired prints and silhouettes.

Zadig&Voltaire

This is the brand you have to revere if you're a "rock chick" or a "Kate Moss wannabe". I have to admiti that Zadig&Voltaires aesthetic has a very special space in my heart and I'm really sweet for this collection. 

PARIS FASHION WEEK Spring 2015 // Valentino

There is so much more to say about PFW Couture and NYFW is already upon us... despite that there is still something we have to talk about, that Valentino show that once again exceeded all expectations. I understand that most people will find this collection too theatrical and too literal in it's interpretation of sixteenth/ seventeenth century folk but a Couture collection can be all that, actually it should be all that and even more. No harm done, haute couture lets designers exercise their creativity muscle without restraints and the result is always something to behold.

The designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli walked us through the social ladder of the early modern russian society, from the rural workforce consisting of the peasent woman that wore simple dresses with plain fabrics, to the noble woman that wore rich fabrics with brocade patterns embroidered and deep colors. Once again folk motifs are present and this time is very easy to spot the russian inspiration.

What else can I add? You just need to look at the clothes and you'll start dreaming of touching them and being abble to apreciate those embroideries anf fabrics in first-hand.

PARIS FASHION WEEK Spring 2015 // Armani Privé

Mr. Armani problably doesn't know how to make ugly clothes, I imagine that even if he tried he would fail miserably. 

This collection has a very strong asian influence, from the traditional japanese silhouettes with the belted kimonos to the bamboo prints and bamboo runway. The soft pastel color sugest some tranquility and serenety to this collection that resignates with the Armani woman, one can only hope to become one some day.

Overwhelmed

So I really don't know where to beguin... Couture week is by far my favorite fashion week. I dare say that seeing one of these shows in person in first row is on my bucket list, not because of the status associated with being seated in that row among major fashion icons and celebrities but because I would be able to apreciate every detail and details are what couture is all about. When I was in London I visited the Victoria and Albert Museum and was able to see couture pieces in person and the experience was so special that I had chills with some of the dresses.

These last four days in spite of the beautiful weather outside I found myself stuck at home babysitting my new friend/homewrecker/puppy/cuttest thing on earth and that gave me time to see every show so far. I feel overwelmed with so many outstandingly beautiful things to behold. Like Freddie Mercury sings, it´s a kind of magic,

Christian Dior // Armani Privé // Chanel // Gianbattista Valli

PARIS FASHION WEEK Spring 2015 // Atelier Versace

It all starts with Atelier Versace with fully dressed women in fitted tailleurs with amazing flare pants that made me wish I had the hight that allows you to rock this style of pants. Slowly introducing volume  and cutouts, the female body starts to appear and the Versace woman starts to take shape. The color palette is strong but unnapeling to me, black, white, royal blue and red, this only makes sense if the Versace house is unapologetically trying to appeal to the "all american" woman. Not much more can be said about this collection that to me doesn't have the appeal of a couture show.

The "power suit" with flare pants

Belts, huge belts

and...  transparecies and cutouts that show off the body has only Versace woman can.

IT'S HERE!!